Museo Nacional de Moneda -- A trip to the Mint

A couple of blocks away from the Plaza Santo Domingo, in Mexico City's Centro Historico, the downtown neighborhood, is located the old mint.  This is the factory where, for over 100 years, all of Mexico's coins were minted.  It is an enormous complex, covering four whole city blocks, but amazingly, it is cannot be seen from the street -- all around the outside of the complex there are tiny shops and markets, selling everything from underwear to toys to paper products.  These line the entire perimeter of the building, obscuring it from view.  On Saturday past, I went on a tour of the mint with a group of (mostly) Americans.

The mint is located in a transformed 16th century hacienda.  Although it is now in the center of the downtown, at the time it was built, this was the very outskirts of the city. 

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Typical of the homes of the period, the rooms were centered around an interior courtyard.  This was ideal for the mint, because the ore could be brought from the street and put in this central courtyard, where it was secure. 

What could be behind this door?



After some opening words of introduction and explanation, our guide led us to this door -- not very impressive or noteworthy.  Until he opened it. 

 

This cavernous room looked to be at least two square blocks in area -- with walls and ceilings and floor blackened from the soot of years of coal burning to melt the ore, plus the ancient and grimy equipment  -- it looked like something out of a Dickens novel. 

 

Above is a picture of the oven where the copper, silver, and gold were melted.  If ever I'm having a bad day at work I'll remind myself of these guys who worked 12 hours a day, six days a week in the foundry, handling molten metal, in a room that averaged 55 degrees Celsius (that's 131 degrees Fahrenheit).  To keep cool in the heat the workers wore felt aprons (that's wool!) soaked in water and were allotted 4 liters of pulque daily. 

 

Above is the product that came out of the foundry -- metal ingots. 
 

 





The ingots are then pressed -- fifty times -- under high pressure to produce the long, flat metal pieces visible in right of the photo. 

 The 'blanks' are cut out of the metal slabs.

 

 

And I got to help!!!

 

 I had always thought that coins were made by pouring molten metal into a mold, and letting the metal cool off and solidify.  Actually, the 'blanks' receive their image by pressure (26 tons of pressure -- or something like that) in a machine that looks like this:

 

Blanks are put in the cup to the left, and after being impressed come out the shute into the box on the floor. 

The machine pressed out the design above -- I was told that it is one of the most famous and considered one of the most beautiful coins ever designed. The coin is named for the 'columns' to the left and right of the globe and crown in the center.  The ribbon coiled around the column inspired the sign for Mexican pesos -- an 'S' with one vertical line through it --$.  (The US dollar sign supposedly has two vertical lines through it.)  I also learned that over the years Mexico has been considered one of the premier locations in the world for the design and making of coins and medals.  It makes sense, since so much precious metal has been mined here over the years. 

 

 

Sábado

Sábado means Saturday. (It also means Sabbath, as in 'day of rest.') And it also is the name of one of the largest outdoor craft markets in Mexico City.  I had been wanting to see the Bazar del Sábado for a while now, but Saturdays have a way of getting taken up with one thing and another.  Finally this past Saturday (in Easter week) I finally had the chance to visit.  The Bazaar takes place in San Angel, which is a beautiful colonial neighborhood of cobblestone streets, baroque churches, and whitewashed stucco mansions in the south of the city. 

 

This is the convent Church of San Jacinto

The lovely carved and gilt altar



The tranquil courtyard

 



The Bazar Sábado is located along several of the neighborhood's plazas and streets, and features artesans displaying their typical popular Mexican crafts -- like tile, silver, jewelry, and embroidery -- but also includes paintings, photography, and sculptures.  The streets are crowded with tourists, shoppers, food vendors and musicians playing guitar, accordion, or hand organ.  A colorful way to spend a Saturday. (I'll be back closer to Christmas!)

 

Museo de Arte Moderno

Usually for my day off I do the usual errands -- shopping, dry cleaners, etc.  Today I decided I needed a real change of pace for my day off, so I decided to try again to visit the Museum of Modern Art.  It is located in the Parque de Chapultepec, a short bus ride from the house.  (Parque de Chapultepec is one of the largest urban parks in the world, it contains about a half-dozen other museums, plus a lake, a zoo, and various monuments.)  There are four major galleries in the museum,which is a 20th century building (1968, I think) with exhibition spaces on both sides of a large and quite impressive rotunda. 

I felt fortunate that there were docents available to give a tour through the museum.  It was like no kind of museum tour I've ever experienced.  To begin with, I was the only one on the tour -- so it was very personalized.  And, of course, it was in Spanish.  But instead of the guide giving explanations about the artist, the works, the background, etc. she asked my "What do you  see in this painting?"  So I had to explain to her what I was witnessing.  The other interesting aspect of the tour is that the exhibit we saw was a thematic presentation of works in the permanent collection of the Museum. 

 

This particular exhibition was entitled "A Century of criticism,"  The above picture at the entrance of the gallery is The Revolution gives back culture, by the great Mexican muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros. 

 

It might no be too difficult to imagine, given Mexico's history, that one of the institutions that met with some of the artists' most vehement criticism was religion, and the church in particular.  This is a tryptich by Diego Rivera, entitled The History of Religion. 



Here's a closer look at the three panels, for maximum impact:
1.  The Aztec Religion (note the bloody sacrifice)

2.  The Greco-Roman religion:
     (with more sacrifice -- note how Zeus/Jupiter is sticking a sword into the back of the other god)

3.  The Christian Religion. 
     (interesting -- the Christ here, while wearing a crown of thorns, is not the suffering
Christ offering his life as a sacrifice.)

I won't offer my interpretation here, but will repeat for you the docent's question: "What do you see here?"  (I think probably not something very complimentary to the Church. 

Here is another fascinating cultural critique of the Church, by another important Mexican artist:

Note that given this perspective the viewer stands in the place where the priest would be, and the people on the floor of the church, with outstreched arms seem to be asking the viewer to do the work of the priest and intercede on their behalf.  Note, too, the roof of the church is mostly missing, and there is a demonic figure holding the building together.  What do you see here?

I also spent some time in the sculpture garden that surrounds the museum.  An oasis of peace and beauty in the midst of the busy city.

 

 

Sínodo

I've been attending Diocesan Conventions for the last (nearly) thirty years of my life -- in San Diego (three times) in New Jersey (twenty four times, I think). Last Saturday, I attended the synod of the Diocese of Mexico.

Here in Mexico, we call it sínodo in English that's "synod."  In New Jersey there were over 160 Churches and there were over 800 people in attendance at the annual convention.  Here in Mexico, there are about 30 congregations -- only a handful are self-supporting, that is to say parishes and the rest of them are mission churches or preaching stations.  There were about one hundred people in attendance. 

Like every other Diocesan meeting I have attended, this one began with a festive service of Holy Eucharist.  This took place at the Chapel of the Seminario de San Andres, which is on the grounds adjacent to the Diocesan Center.  The service included the renewal of ordination vows.  The clergy of the diocese were invited to join in a circle around the altar (I'm behind the altar in this picture.)

Here I am seated here in the chapel, next to my clergy colleagues. 











After the service, the meeting began.  There was the typical business of the church -- reports received, elections held, budgets reviewed.  Of course for me the hightlight was when the clergy new to the diocese were presented.

To the left is the new interim rector of the other English-speaking parish of the Diocese, which is in San Miguel.  To the far right are a deacon and a priest who were both ordained at Christ Church this year.  Bishop Carlos is in the background. 

The delegation of Christ Church at work. 

 

 



A Day to Remember

What kind of Church has its highest attendance not on Christmas, not on Easter, but on the second Sunday in November? 

Strange as it may seem, Christ Church's biggest attendance of the year is on the Sunday nearest to Remembrance Day, which in the US in known as "Veterans Day."  I don't remember much about Veterans Day, and I don't know if it still is a school or bank or federal holiday.  Mostly, it's an excuse for retailers to have a Veterans Days sale, and other than a few people who are active in VFW Posts, it is mostly a forgotten observance.

Not here.  Because the influence of the British expatriate community is so strong here, those holidays and observances that are important in the UK are still important here.  And Remembrance Day is big in the UK, and, I imagine, throughout all of Europe.  Of course the two world wars were fought there on their soil, so the memories are still strong, and the veterans and their families and descendants still remember and hold dear the sacrifices that were made for homeland. And so Christ Church in Mexico City has a British-style Remembrance Day Observance on the Sunday closest to November 11, which this year was on the day itself. 

Invitations are sent to all of the Ambassadors of the Allied Nations from both World War I and World War II, which means that Commonwealth Nations are included as well.  It turned out that fouteen ambassadors or their designees accepted the invitations and were present in Church that day.  The service was a regular Sunday morning Holy Eucharist which included special music -- the choir presented several movements of the Faure requiem and the St. Patrick's Battalion of Pipes and Drums led the procession into the Church with bagpipes and great fanfare. 

St. Patrick's Battalion of Pipes and drums, with flag bearers in the background. 

Christ Church Choir and clergy

The guest preacher was the Rev. Canon John White, retired from Windsor Chapel (as in Windsor Castle, which is one of the official residences of the queen).  Canon White has come for this event every year for approximately the last eighteen years.



The Rector and clergy of Christ Church with the Rev. John White (second from right)

The Remembrance Day observance takes place immediately after church on the church patio where the names of the fallen are inscribed on a series of plaques affixed to the walls of the parish house.  The names of those who died in the two world wars are read, including the names of those in the Mexican Air Force Squadron who fought alongside US airmen.  This is an aspect of US history that I knew nothing about until I moved down here, but the Aztec Eagles as they came to be known, fought bravely and provided a valuable service to the allied military forces.   So they are remembered along with the US and British soldiers. 

The Ambassador of the UK also gave a brief address.  I found her words rather brave, as one of the thoughts she reflected her point of view as a diplomat that war represents a failure of diplomacy. 

H.E. Judith MacGregor, Ambassador of the United Kingdom to Mexico

 

After the address, the wreath laying ceremony followed, and the ambassadors (or their representatives) placed their tributes beneath the plaques.

A member of Christ Church and veteran of World War II lays a memorial wreath of poppies.

 

 Other organizations also their tributes, including some of the schools, the British Benevolent Society, and other international organizations.  The service followed the traditional order of many years, and included the minute of silence, one of the bagpipers playing the Piper's Lament, and a trumpeter concluding with Reveille. 

Of course there was a lavish reception (also part of the tradition!) which included not only coffee and tea, but also whiskey, beer, and wine. 

Remembrance Day was, indeed, a day to remember.  

The official picture of Remembrance Day includes the clergy, the Ambassadors, the Veterans, the Pipe Band, and the Color Guard,

Día de los Muertos

In the Episcopal Church in the U.S., one of the major feast days is All Saints' Day, 1 November, but most often celebrated on the Sunday after.  It is the feast of all of God's Faithful people, known and unknown, who are witnesses to the resurrection of Jesus Christ, and claimed as Christ's own through the sacrament of baptism.  2 November is another feast of the Church, All Souls Day or All Faithful Departed.  The distinction between the two days is clearer in the Roman Catholic tradition, with the former being the day devoted to all canonized saints (saints with a capital 's') and the latter being the day devoted to prayer on behalf of the souls in purgatory.  Anglicans do not believe in the doctrine of purgatory, but still hold on to All Souls Day  as an opportunity to remember very particularly the saints without the capital 's', those faithful Christians who are departed this life and may be known only to us -- their families, friends, and companions here on earth. 

The above is rather a long explanation to introduce a colorful series of customs unique to Mexico, Día de los Muertos,  The Day of the Dead.  Although Mexico is a country with a (nominally) large Roman Catholica majority, much of the pre-Columbian indigenous past remains alive in the corporate memory.  Many hundreds of years ago the Aztec people had a festival devoted to the goddess Mictacecihuatl, queen of the underworld who ruled over the afterlife.  That festival was never really abandoned, even after the 'conversion' of the native peoples to Christ during the age of the conquistadores.  The festival was simply absorbed into Christian festival, so that now the Day of the Dead contains both Christian and pagan elements.  It is a huge celebration throughout the country, and many schools, banks, and offices have a day off for 2 November.

My particular obligation on Dia de los Muertos as Rector of Christ Church, the English-speaking Anglican parish in Mexico City, was to preside over a service at the Panteón Británico, the British Cemetery.

 

A tarp had been set up in the back of the cemetery for a bit of shade from the sun, and a table 

was there which we used as an altar.  Music was provided by a bagpiper from St. Patrick's Battalion of Pipes and Drums.   It lent an appropriate air of solemnity to the occasion.  Although there were a handful of English-speakers present, the majority were Spanish speakers, so I preached and celebrated in Spanish. 

About fifty people joined us for the outdoor service of Holy Communion that was at once informal, dignified, and joyful. 



 

After the service, those present asked me to bless the gravesites of their departed loved ones, so I went from one end of the cemetery offering prayers. 

 

Perhaps the most interesting and colorful aspect of the celebration of the Día de los Muertos is the decoration of the gravesites by the family members.  Not only flowers and plants, but also whirligigs, streamers, and pictures are placed on the gravesites.  Fruits, bread, and other food offerings are also put out, sometimes with bottles of tequila or cigarettes.  Some of the gravesites are quite lavishly covered, and the whole effect is quite is colorful and picturesque.  Some families come to the cemeteries and spend a whole day there, picnicking and celebrating the life of their loved one.  To me, it seemed a cultural commentary consistent with a Christian view of death and resurrection (I Corinthians 15 "O death where is thy sting?  O Death where is thy victory?") 

 

Note the children playing beside the tombstones.  I think there's something quite appropriate about teaching children that a cemetery is not a place to be feared or dreaded, but a place to remember and celebrate the life of a loved one. 

 

 

All in all, a beautiful and memorable day, another new adventure, and a further introduction to the complex and fascinating customs and culture of my new home. 

 

Alebrijes

All of Mexico is preparing for one of the county's great national festivals, Día de Muertos, the Day of the Dead.  Día de Muertos bears some resemblance to the US celebration of Halloween, as they share the same root: both are related to the Christian Holy Day celebrated on November 1, which is All Saints' Day.  Día de Muertos, however, is celebrated on the second of November, when many families not only decorate the graves of their departed loved ones, but will actually make an outing of the visitation of the gravesite and share a picnic at the cemetery, often preparing and serving the favorite foods of the departed. 

This time of year also coincides with a folk art exhibition sponsored by the Museo de Artes Populares here in Mexico City. Artists from all over the Federal District create enormous folk sculptures of fantastical creatures, decorated in vivid colors and garish designs.  The alebrijes are entered in a parade through the historic heart of the city, after which they are displayed along the Paseo de la Reforma, which is one of the main thoroughfares through the city.  The outlandish creatures show off their creators' imagination and artistic vision in a unique and fascinating colloquial art form.  Some of the alebrijes are as much as ten feet tall -- they are constructed of wire frames overlaid with papier-mache and then painted.  You can see that on many there is great attention to the details of the colorful designs. 

 

Folks who work in that section of the city, tourists visiting, and others stroll up and down the avenue to see the alebrijes during the two weeks or so that they remain there. 

Here are a few of the individual pieces -- I took several dozen pictures, so I'm sharing just a few of my favorites: