Día de los Muertos

In the Episcopal Church in the U.S., one of the major feast days is All Saints' Day, 1 November, but most often celebrated on the Sunday after.  It is the feast of all of God's Faithful people, known and unknown, who are witnesses to the resurrection of Jesus Christ, and claimed as Christ's own through the sacrament of baptism.  2 November is another feast of the Church, All Souls Day or All Faithful Departed.  The distinction between the two days is clearer in the Roman Catholic tradition, with the former being the day devoted to all canonized saints (saints with a capital 's') and the latter being the day devoted to prayer on behalf of the souls in purgatory.  Anglicans do not believe in the doctrine of purgatory, but still hold on to All Souls Day  as an opportunity to remember very particularly the saints without the capital 's', those faithful Christians who are departed this life and may be known only to us -- their families, friends, and companions here on earth. 

The above is rather a long explanation to introduce a colorful series of customs unique to Mexico, Día de los Muertos,  The Day of the Dead.  Although Mexico is a country with a (nominally) large Roman Catholica majority, much of the pre-Columbian indigenous past remains alive in the corporate memory.  Many hundreds of years ago the Aztec people had a festival devoted to the goddess Mictacecihuatl, queen of the underworld who ruled over the afterlife.  That festival was never really abandoned, even after the 'conversion' of the native peoples to Christ during the age of the conquistadores.  The festival was simply absorbed into Christian festival, so that now the Day of the Dead contains both Christian and pagan elements.  It is a huge celebration throughout the country, and many schools, banks, and offices have a day off for 2 November.

My particular obligation on Dia de los Muertos as Rector of Christ Church, the English-speaking Anglican parish in Mexico City, was to preside over a service at the Panteón Británico, the British Cemetery.

 

A tarp had been set up in the back of the cemetery for a bit of shade from the sun, and a table 

was there which we used as an altar.  Music was provided by a bagpiper from St. Patrick's Battalion of Pipes and Drums.   It lent an appropriate air of solemnity to the occasion.  Although there were a handful of English-speakers present, the majority were Spanish speakers, so I preached and celebrated in Spanish. 

About fifty people joined us for the outdoor service of Holy Communion that was at once informal, dignified, and joyful. 



 

After the service, those present asked me to bless the gravesites of their departed loved ones, so I went from one end of the cemetery offering prayers. 

 

Perhaps the most interesting and colorful aspect of the celebration of the Día de los Muertos is the decoration of the gravesites by the family members.  Not only flowers and plants, but also whirligigs, streamers, and pictures are placed on the gravesites.  Fruits, bread, and other food offerings are also put out, sometimes with bottles of tequila or cigarettes.  Some of the gravesites are quite lavishly covered, and the whole effect is quite is colorful and picturesque.  Some families come to the cemeteries and spend a whole day there, picnicking and celebrating the life of their loved one.  To me, it seemed a cultural commentary consistent with a Christian view of death and resurrection (I Corinthians 15 "O death where is thy sting?  O Death where is thy victory?") 

 

Note the children playing beside the tombstones.  I think there's something quite appropriate about teaching children that a cemetery is not a place to be feared or dreaded, but a place to remember and celebrate the life of a loved one. 

 

 

All in all, a beautiful and memorable day, another new adventure, and a further introduction to the complex and fascinating customs and culture of my new home.