Lunch with a Primate

No, I didn't eat a hot dog with a gorilla. 

I had lunch with the Primate (i.e. the Archbishop/Prime Bishop/Presiding Bishop) of the Iglesia Anglicana de Mexico.  The bishop of the Diocese of Mexico (by the way, México is the name of the country, of a state, and of the capital city), where Christ Church is located, is also the head of this independent Province of the Anglican Communion, and thus an Anglican primate.  He is The Most Rev. Carlos Touché Porter, a native-born second- or third- generation Mexican, of English and Palestinian extraction.  Interestingly, although he grew up speaking Spanish, he is fully bi-lingual, and came to the Anglican communion as a teenager, when he began worshipping at Old Christ Church (downtown) when it was exclusively an English speaking congregation. 

Since I am the new kid on the block, the bishop kindly took me to lunch yesterday.  And what a lunch it was.   He (and his driver) picked me up at the church and drove me to San Angel, which is in the south of the city.  We had lunch at the San Angel Inn, which was built in 1692 as "Hacienda de los Goeicochea." At that time, it belonged to minor Spanish nobility, who used a large portion of the surrounding land to grow maguey cactus, which is the source of the syrup that is fermented and distilled into Tequila.  The word 'hacienda' simply means 'property,' although in this context it refers to a country estate, which is exactly what the inn used to be.  It was a kind of playground for the Spanish aristocracy during the viceregal period, and the later for the Emperor Maximilian and his wife, Carlota when the French occupied Mexico in the 19th century.  The inn is also a significant historical site in Mexican history since General Santa Anna planned the "Chapultepec Battle" there, and, in later years, the pact between Pancho Villa and General Zapata was formalized in the same spot.  In recent times, the San Angel Inn has been an elegant restaurant that has hosted, among others, Prince Philip of England, Queen Beatrice of Holland, Roberd Kennedy, Muhammad, Ali, Rock Hudson, Brigitte Bardot, Neil Armstrong, Henry Kissinger, Jimmy Carter, and the great Mexican novelist Octavio Paz.  Some years ago, a member of Christ Church who at the time was head usher, was the official photographer of the San Angel Inn, and took pictures of these and other celebrities when they visited. 

'Hacienda', as the word is used to describe San Angel Inn, also refers to a particular style of building or architecture; it was originally constructed to be a large family home set around an open central courtyard or patio.  In the earliest days the animals would have been brought into the courtyard, and much of the household activity would have taken place there in that enclosed outdoor area.  Today, the courtyard is an exquisite flower garden, planted with long stemmed roses, vivid geraniums, and all manner of tropical greenery, some of which cascades down from the roof.  The interior dining rooms feature thick adobe walls, ceilings with exposed wood beams, and a tiled fireplace; the bar is paneled in dark wood.  The bishop and I were practically the first to arrive for lunch (1:30 is very early for lunch in Mexico!), and when we did, the tables were dressed with white cloths, blue and white crockery plates, and cobalt blue glassware.  It was a feast for the eyes before we even glanced at a menu. 

The menu featured both Mexican and Continental dishes, but I felt that I should eat local.  So I ordered an appetizer of crepes stuffed with huitlacoche -- translates as 'corn mushrooms' but is actually a black fungus that grows on corn.  I know, the idea sounds disgusting, eating fungus, but it's no different from mushrooms or blue cheese, both of which I love.  Huitlacoche is much esteemed in Mexican cuisine for its exotic, earthy flavor, somewhat comparable to black truffles.  For a main course I had fish in Veracruz sauce, which includes tomatoes, onions, olives, peppers (both mild and hot) herbs and spices.  For dessert (since it's Easter Season, of course) I chose to set aside the scruples of my naturally abstemious nature and celebrate the Lord's resurrection.  I did go continental this time, and ordered Isla Flotante ("floating island" in English) which is one of the best desserts in the entire world: poached meringues 'floating' in a custard sauce, served with blackberries and strawberries.

It was a generous and thoughtful welcome to Mexico from my new bishop.  And by the way, we did actually have meaningful conversation about a number of topics regarding the church and the Church's ministry.  I feel blessed to have already a good working relationship with mt new bishop.

Sorry not to have pictures of this gorgeous and fascinating place -- why would I think to bring my camera along for lunch with a primate?