Tuesday, May 28, 2013

"On Behalf of a Grateful Nation"

Memorial Day, which was celebrated yesterday, is not about picnics and barbecues, long weekends at the beach, parades, or sales at the mall.  It is, of course, to remember and honor those who gave their lives for the freedom and security of their country.  Here in  Mexico, that message seems stronger without all the traditional trappings of a US Memorial Day celebration. 
The Memorial Day Observance I attended took place at the American Military Cemetery in Mexico City -- the oldest of its kind outside of the US.  Located in a busy shopping and residential section of the city, it is an oasis of peace and quiet in the midst of the noise and bustle.  In attendance were other US expatriates, including staff members of the US Embassy.  Other countries sent representatives as well, including the Philippines, Japan, Canada, and several European nations.  The ceremony culminated in the traditional wreath-laying at the monument.
 
The keynote speaker was the charge d'affaires of the US embassy, but perhaps the best speech was given by a US officer who shared stories and remembrances of members of the armed services whom he had known who later died in combat. 
 
A highlight of the morning for me was meeting three members of the Mexican Air Force Squadron 201.  Known popularly as the 'Aztec Eagles,' they fought alongside Allied Forces in the Pacific during World War 2.  There is a plaque in memory of their fallen companions on the wall of Christ Church.  Mexico was one of only two Latin American nations that actually supplied combat forces during that conflict. 

 

I was proud to be an American.  And proud, too, and humbled, to be here in Mexico.  Somehow the overarching message of the Memorial Day of observance was the yearning for peace among all nations.  Amen to that!

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Place of the Coyotes


Recently I was in 'the place of the Coyotes' for a tour.   Actually it's called Coyoacan, and it's one of the oldest neighborhoods in Mexico City.  Cortes considered making it his capital at the time of the conquest, but eventually opted for the center of the city where the old capital of the Aztec (technically Mexica -- pronounced meh -sheek -uh) was.
Coyoacan was important in pre-Columbian Mexico because it had fresh water -- here is one of the only open rivers in the whole city -- most of the rest of them are covered over and re-routed underground. 

Coyoacan is best known in the tourist world for the preserved home of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.  We did not visit there, but saw some of the lesser known sites.   For example:

The Casa Alvarado, now the 'Museum of Sound' with audio files of the History of Mexico, 


Chapel of St. Anthony of Padua
Plaza Sta. Catalina -- this church was built for the indigenous people on a large square, as they were unaccustomed to worshipping inside, and preferred an outdoor religious ceremony. 
 
 


The Italian Cultuiral Center, housed in a lovely old hacienda, offers language courses, a library of books in and about  Italian, and a wonderful little Italian grocery store!

The Gardens of the Italian Cultural Center
 
We ended up in the center of Coyoacan, in the Jardín del Centenario.  At the entrance to this plaza where this portal is located. 
 
At the opposite end of the plaza is the colonial church of San Juan Bautista, which has some amazing frescoes on the ceiling.  (There were baptisms taking place while we were there, so I didn't get any photos...)
 
 
Enjoyed a great (if pricey) lunch at one of the many restaurants that face the plaza. 
The coyote fountain above is in the center of the plaza, and like most public spaces in Mexico, it is populated by street performers -- musicians, magicians and actors -- as well as vendors selling artwork, trinkets, and souvenirs.